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The last day of 2011,
It has been a wonderful year of traveling and meeting friends. it also has been a year of healing a injured ankle and a broken wrist.
More so it has been a year of saying goodbye.
If I had to select one word to sum up this last year I would say it was Full or Generous.
What was the year like for you?
Naples Italy.
If you had only one day to spend in Naples, Italy around the Christmas holiday what would you do?
That was the question we asked ourselves on our cruise. Since we had been to Naples before visiting Pompeii, we decided to explore the city's center.
(An Italian artist creating a nativity landscape... I wanted to flirt with his gorgeous-ness. But felt kinda silly considering he was creating a symbolic womb of Christianity, plus I am married, older, and do not speak more than ten words in Italian two of them being, "Bacio Qui... (Kiss here)". But oh, that strong arm of his covered up in his leather jacket. Gosh dang, those Italians have sexy style even when doing something religious!)
Naples conjures images of dark handsome men in alleyways, women on balconies hanging out clothes, narrow streets running along colorful walls, church bells ringing next to wafts of garlic perfumed air and pizza dough swirling landing in wood burning ovens, while young and old gather outside hand in hand, arm in arm with full ruby lips that you want to kiss but cannot because they don't stop conversing, kissing, arguing and embracing conversation which seems nothing short of passionate foreplay.
I dream of being Italian: Long dark thick hair, a tiny waist, full bosom, walking with my hips to the beat of la Traviata.... conversing with my hands that say something simple like, "Do you want dinner?" but read life and death all in one twist of the wrist.
And so Chelsea and I set off for a day in Naples with three goals in mind:
1) To walk aimlessly soaking in the atmosphere.
2) I mentioned to Chelsea that I heard that during the Christmas season one should not miss the street where artist show their handmade nativity scenes. Though I had no idea where that street might be. 3) Chelsea smiled, "that's my mother smile", and said, "I heard we should eat Pizza."
Without a map, we set out on foot to the center of town.
Noting a long line of Italians outside a pizzeria we took that as a sign of a good eatery.
While waiting in line I noticed they had a take out service on the side. We ordered a pizza. I asked if I could take photos (by motioning) they agreed, motioning back that I had to take a photo of them with Chelsea.
Between taking our order, calling it out, smiling, kneading the dough, his pinched Chelsea's behind. (Note expression on Chelsea's face above.) He laughed, we saw no harm and laughed too. We were in Naples, the pizza was incredible, life was good, and Chelsea swore there was cheese in the crust. It was tender, light, with the perfect chew factor. Though I knew there wasn't cheese in the crust, instead it was centuries of experienced hands that knew just how to knead and pinch.
Across the street from I Decumani I saw another line of people going in and out of a bakery. Most of them came out carrying Rum Baba. After dining on our pizza from I Decumani on a street bench we headed towards the Rum Baba line. My stomach screamed, "FULL ALREADY!" Though my taste buds hollered louder to my heart, "Only in Naples for one day!" Then even louder, "...Naples is home to Rum Baba!"
''Traditionally, if you went into a cafe, you'd see a bunch of old guys ordering pieces of plain cake and pouring shots of (rum) or limoncello over the top,'' said Arthur Schwartz, the radio show host and author of ''Naples at Table'' (HarperCollins, 1998).
Although most associate babas with France, the dessert is arguably even more popular in southern Italy, where babas probably date back to the 18th century. This is when Marie Antoinette's sister Maria Carolina married King Ferdinand IV of Naples, Mr. Schwartz said, and there was much cultural and culinary exchange between the two sisters in France and Naples." New York Times
To say it was the best Rum Baba I ever ate in my entire life is to say that Chelsea had to knock me out and drag me back to reality because I wanted to have ten more. Chelsea said, "Mother, focus! Seriously you cannot eat another one let alone ten." God, I don't like it when she gets all grown-up on me. I walked away with a trail of drool behind me.
I regret not having ten more, plus another pizza.
Video attached: How to make Baba Rum: Rum soaked cakes from the Neapolitan cookbook -- enjoy these boozy delights from GialloZafferano, Italy's #1 food website.
Naples is a feast not only for taste, but for the entire five senses. A paradise of living history. The architecture, the crowded streets, the people, the sounds dance to an underground beat mashed-up with opera. You never know what to expect, except pleasure without having to dress up.
Via San Gregorio Armeno, the Nativity street, came upon us with instant love and fascination.
The presepe or nativity scenes, or santons/creche in French, are a love of mine. Though the Italians take their presepe to whole new level. Numerous shops, and vendors pack the the street (Via San Gregorio) with creative, nativity figurines in splendor variations. Jesus, Madonna and Joseph are but one of many of the figurines you will find. Perfectly detailed copies of household objects, gastronomic delights, exotic animals, houses, hillsides, plants, plus accessories to create your own presepe. Rolls of cork to create the mountains, ready-to-place houses, wells, waterfalls, fountains, columns, trees, grasslands, bridges, towers.... most items are handmade in Naples. Of course you can buy a completed presepe with or without the nativity pieces.
The presepes on Via San Gregorio, in Naples.
Art, as is. Aren't they amazing?
And as the Holy Night would have it I stumbled across an antique shop selling old nativity scenes. I felt like one of the wise men coming to the stable. Joy! Holy Wonder! Praising the high heavens. Thank you baby Jesus.
As the sun set we hesitantly made our way back to the dock withour taste buds bursting
we were not ready to sail.... though the sea beckoned.
Those shining stars who get under our skin, who capture our hearts, who take us beyond what we ever knew about love. Those shining stars, those who we love, and love us in return.
Have you ever known a love like that? Someone who is your star, who leads you?
Star light.
Star bright.
What happiness I feel when I am around my children. Just being with them and watching them become who they are. How fortunate I feel loving them, knowing they love me, and trust me.
I loved being their mother when they were babies. I remember thinking that each age: Newborn, Two, Five, Seven, Ten, Fourteen, Sixteen, Twenty... was the best and couldn't imagine that it would be better. I was happily wrong.
I love that they love each other. That they get along, are never jealous and are there for each other. I am happy to watch them at a distant and or close at hand. I wish I would swallow them whole, but do what I can to stand back and let them be. Have you ever wanted to hold someone forever?
I wish they would live under our roof, or at least next door forever.
First star I see at night.
I know I am being gushy and proud, but that is what happens when I spend unlimited time with these two.
They make me happy even when....
(Goofing off but I like it.)
... I have to take ten thousand photos (and I am not exaggerating no matter what Chelsea says!) of Chelsea to have ten without her making a face. Okay let's say that Chelsea likes to make faces, though when I beg her not too, she will smile briefly and sometimes I am lucky to catch it before she goofs off again. And what is really, utterly strange is Chelsea is the more serious one out of the two of these potato heads. And Sacha rarely goofs off in front of the camera, well with me that is.
One day Chelsea will probably marry and when she does I am certain her wedding photo will be one with her making a face. And if not I'll cry.
These two shining stars I have made my wishes come true.
Malta.
More to come later today.
But first I have to find a Maltese pastry favorite of mine.
Our room,
And a manicure, have you heard of Shellac polish?
Amazing.
Our first stop on our cruise was Pompeii, Italy. This is not our first visit to Pompeii, but then each visit to Pompeii is like the "first time" as there is far too much to see.
Pompeii: *He prayed.
As we walked along the silent streets of Pompeii, history unfolded around us. Sacha was a wealth of information, telling me facts that haunted me more than the above figure.
"Look, the man was praying." I said to Sacha.
Sacha said, "Well, maybe...but he probably was protecting himself from the eruption of Mount Vesuvius."
I poked Sacha and added, "Like I said, he was praying."
Sacha poked me back, and stuck out his tongue. ( A bad habit of his.)
*Sacha explains:
"The eruption of Vesuvius (in 79 A.D.) destroyed Pompeii within a few days. Mount Vesuvius spewed rock and ash burying Pompeii alive.
The people who died in Pompeii were covered in gravel and ash, most died from suffocation. As time went on the ash became hard as rock. The decomposed bodies left a cavity in the ground. Over a thousand years later, when the archaeologist excavated Pompeii, they found the cavities. They filled them with plaster creating casts."
(Children can teach their parents. My son: History teacher 101.)
Photo: 79 A.D. mural in Pompeii.
In Pompeii you witness the tales of life and death. When I saw this mural on a wall in
Pompeii, I thought it looked like the angel of death giving wings to a young woman.
photo: 79 A.D. detail of a mural in Pompeii
Can you imagine a painting, outdoors on a stone wall, lasting nearly two thousand years?
For more photos and interesting facts about Pompeii: Virtual Tour of Pompeii
note: This is a repost as downloading photos from the boat takes more time than I have. I will post news and photos as soon as I am able.
Bags packed and off we go on our sixth cruise.
Who would have known that we would be cruisers?
No driving, delicious meals, entertainment, rooms that encourage you to get out, spas that encourage you to relax, jazz bars, clubs, the sea, steady plan of action... easy and cost friendly.
On Costa, an Italian cruise liner we are best buds with, leaves out of Marseille, making hopping a cruise (faire un saut) incredibly tempting. Plus the fact that children 18 and under travel for free if two full price tickets are bought. This will be our first cruise were we have to pay for our two grown children. Merry Christmas!
All four of us love cruises... We travel the sea at night, wake to breakfast, to taste a different place (and sometimes country) each day... Amazing. Of course some of those bites are not enough. Which simply means your appetite is whet, setting your heart-sail to return one day.
Months after September 11th we went on our first cruise down the Nile. My cousin (Sacha's Godmother) went with us.... that is how she got the name Sheba.
It was wonderful, far more than I ever imagined.
Our second cruise we went to Rhodes, Cyprus, Turkey....
We danced every night, and set foot in a new country everyday.
Chelsea and Sacha were youngins' ... they had their first taste of staying up far too late dancing, and getting up far too early to visit.
We had a blast.
Dancing is something we have in common.... and playing Pictionary , Chelsea and I rule.
Some of the places and monuments we have visited:
The cliffs in Madeira.
An unknown famous statue in Malaga.
A tour guide not to trust in Barcelona.
Did you know the Sphinx was modeled after a him?
In Libya we witnessed red sand / dust sand storm, a meteorological phenomenon.
It was incredible, as far as you could see it was red. No other color remained.
The boat was covered with red sand... I felt sorry for those who had to clean it.
We have set sail!
A photo I took of an Aubusson tapestry in a church in Arles.
Merry Christmas!
We are setting sail on a Mediterranean Christmas Cruise.
Where are you celebrating Christmas?
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When I arrived in France years ago, Christmas trees were not part of the French Christmas tradition. The Christmas consumer market had not yet taken off. The French florists usually had a few dried up pine trees for sale, reminding me of Charlie Brown's Christmas tree.
Given this bit of history I want you to imagine a young woman, nine months pregnant, determined to have a Christmas tree, for her soon-to-be-Franco-American baby. Imagine her buying a Charlie Brown tree, then dragging it behind her as she walked the streets of Paris back to her apartment. Then hauling it up the three flights of stairs where she placed the tree upright. One side had bare branches. The other side had needles dangling. The scattered scent of pine, was replaced by sweat and a funny feeling in her womb.
I had a Christmas tree just in time for the first ornament that came bright and beautiful!
The Christmas wheat is growing.
Our candles are dolled up for the occassion too.
The Christmas ornaments are unpacked and hanging on the tree.
"What I want for Christmas" lists are ready and waiting.
Amy Korteum (a blog friend who plays the harp) Christmas carols are playing setting the mood.
This will be one of the first Christmases were I am not cooking. And I think I could learn to like it.
Shelley Noble's, (another dear blogging friend who always sends me a Christmas treat!) handmade gifts are here and there around our house making me smile, wishing that I could make such lovely gifts too.
Did you know that in France they do not put up Christmas stockings, instead they put their shoes out...
A French music box that I found years ago at the brocante.
I love taking it out each year.
Are you ready for Christmas?
